6. Solder all tuning-rods in the topside of the plungers using a torch.
7. Clean the inside of the central conductors and the outside of the plungers.
Insert the plungers into the central conductors and check the fitting of the plungers in central conductors. You MUST have to use some force when moving the plunger.
8. Place the central conductor on two wooden calipers. Carefully warm up the central conductor with a torch and tin it on the spot where it must be soldered to topplate "A". Keep the tinned area small.
9. Slip the topplate over the pipe and let it rest to one side of a wooden caliper to get it in the correct position.
Adjust the central conductor to get the topplate on the right spot.
Solder the topplate on both sides to the pipe. This can be done with a good soldering-iron, with the help of a blowtorch, to warm up the pipe just under the melting-point of the solder.
10. Make all the coupling-links "C" from 2.5mm silvered (tinned) copperwire (see "top.gif").
MARK the wire with a waterproof marking-pen at a distance of exactly 40mm from the lower end of the coupling link. This to ensure that, after the cavity is closed, you can check during adjustment of in- and output coupling, how deep the coupling-link "C" is in the cavity.
11. Solder all the couplinglinks in topplates "A" so, that it will be 30mm in the cavity.
The pen-marking on the link is then abt. 7mm above the topplate.
The link must run in parallel to the central conductor.
After final adjustment, the link will be fixed with 2 component glue, at the "hot" side if the link to topplate "A".
12. Assemble the standoffs with M3 screws on "A". Then solder them to topplate "A".
You can use a temporarely screwed-on toplid "L" to ensure correct positions of the standoffs.